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April 20, 2020

Dreaming of Austria

Exciting trips on the books? Wine tasting excursions to wine country? Reservation at your favorite restaurant?  Nope…me neither:) As we are stuck home in quarantine, I enjoy writing about the most fabulous food and wine pairings I have been lucky enough to enjoy.  We’re not quite at a place where we can do any of these things just yet, but alas, we can dream. 

Food and Wine Pairings

This brings me to memories of an LA Wine Writers luncheon with Winemonger, an importer of Italian, French, Austrian, and German wine. This lunch featured wines of Austria expertly paired with dishes at Napa Valley Grille in Westwood, CA. I’d be remiss if I did not mention and give kudos to our host, Brian Cousins and the Napa Valley Grille in Westwood. Though Napa Valley Grille is closed during this COVID-19 crisis, I look forward to patronizing them again once the city reopens. 

Napa Valley Grille takes both their food and wine seriously. They are a mainstay in Westwood and for this reason, they maybe get passed over. They’re not the celeb hotspot or a new restaurant being touted by the food world. In contrast, they are an oldie but goodie.

Brian explained to us that unlike many restaurants, they give wine pairings directly on their menu. We always talk about making wine easy for the consumer to understand, and this is a perfect example of that. Their staff gets extensive training, including deep dives into grapes, one by one. Their list is full of classic wines and benchmarks, but there are lots of values to be had, and also thoughtful, and interesting selections.  Check out my post HERE from last week about another lovely food and wine pairing at Napa Valley Grille. 

Wines of Austria

But first, a high-level view of Austrian wines. Austria is known for both dry varietal whites and sweet botrytized whites. White wine, in fact, makes up 2/3 of wine in Austria. There is also an increase in fine red wines in Austria. On the dry white side, Grüner Veltliner is king. 2/3 of white wines in Austria are made from Grüner, which have classic notes of white pepper and spice. On the red side, Zweigelt is the most planted grape. 

And now for the food and wine pairings with my tasting notes!

First Course

Lobster Carpaccio (Compressed Apple, Fried Capers, Micro Dill, Espelette Oil)

Light, fresh, and delicious. 

Wine Pairing #1

Ludwig Neumayer Riesling Engelgarten 2016 ($22 retail)

A precise and balanced Riesling. On the nose: lime peel, white flowers, and petrol. Ripe stone fruit on the palate (apricot and peach), pineapple, and petrol on the palate. Bracing acid. Zippy. Love it. 

Wine Pairing #2

Der Pollerhof Vom Loess 2017 ($25 retail)

We’re in the Weinviertel DAC, which is Grüner country. But this is not Grüner. The blend is 65% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Gelber Muskateller, and 5% Traminer. A beautifully feminine, perfumed wine. Both fruit forward and savory at the same time. Wondering about the label? That’s loess soil…as a wine nerd I love that.

Second Course

Chicken Milanese (Mitzuna, Red Onion, Orange Citrus Vinaigrette)

Wine Pairing #1

Lichtenberger-Gonzalez Muschelkalk 2017 ($23 retail)

A whisper of fruit/floral notes, then we move to secondary/savory notes with a smokey minerality. 

food and wine pairings Lichtenberger-Gonzalez Muschelkalk 2017

Wine Pairing #2

Ebner Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner Bürstig 2016 ($28 retail)

A classic (higher end) Grüner from the Weinviertel DAC. Lovely perfumed and spicy Grüner nose. Persistent flavors with a nice, long finish.

Third Course

Corvina (Summer Squash, Plum Sauce, Arugula-Fennel Salad)

food and wine pairings Corvina (Summer Squash, Plum Sauce, Arugula-Fennel Salad

Wine Pairing #1

Umathum Rosa 2016 ($22 retail)

A blend of 40% Zweigelt, 30% Blaufrankisch, and 30% Saint Laurent. Raspberry, cherry, and red currant on the nose. Biodynamic.

Wine Pairing #2

Umathum Rosa 2018 ($22 retail)

This is somewhere between a rosé and a light red. Crunchy red fruit such as raspberries plus orange peel. Structured; Tavel-like. 

Fourth Course

Short Rib (Sweet Potato Gnocchi, Mushrooms, Thyme, Braising Jus)

Wine Pairing #1

Rosi Schuster Blaufränkisch 2017 ($23 retail)

A savory, animal note on the nose plus bright red fruit and a steely minerality. 

food and wine pairings Rosi Schuster Blaufränkisch 2017

Wine Pairing #2

Moric Blaufränkisch 2017 ($30 retail)

Savory/herbaceous notes plus cranberry and plum.

food and wine pairings Moric Blaufränkisch 2017

Dessert Course

Zantho Grüner Veltliner Eiswein 2016 ($40 retail 375mL)

The grapes are harvested and pressed while frozen. Honey honey honey. A beautiful and SWEET wine (190 g/L residual sugar). 

I hope you enjoyed this post. If you’re looking to Up Your Wine Game and Drink Better, consider booking a private in-person or virtual wine tasting experience.
Brianne Cohen Wine Educator
Brianne Cohen is a certified sommelier, wine educator, consultant, and writer based out of Los Angeles.

Since March 2020, Brianne has educated and entertained over 5,000 people through her “Virtual Vino” online wine tastings.

Brianne holds the WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust) Diploma certificate, one of the most coveted wine certifications in the world. When she’s not helping others Up Their Wine Game, she can be found judging at international wine competitions.

Brianne aims to make wine approachable and conversational, to surprise and delight with unexpected, distinctive wine finds, and to give people knowledge (and confidence) about wine in their everyday lives.

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Sample Policy

As a wine writer, I frequently accept samples for review on my  website and on my social media channels. Please contact me at brianne@briannecohen.com to discuss sending samples for review. I promise to always be honorable with the samples. I will evaluate all wines in good tasting settings and with no distractions.

All reviews are my opinions, and mine only. Because of the volume of samples I receive, I cannot promise that all samples received will be reviewed, but I will do my best.

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